Planted in 2008 into a block where 28 year old Cabernet Sauvignon vines had been removed, these vines struggled pathetically for more than 10 years to establish themselves and produced tiny crops of somewhat indifferent fruit. 2019 however was a watershed year and they finally offered up a nice crop of 2.5 tonnes per acre which they managed to ripen to perfection. Riesling is still a firm favourite amongst winemakers and this example reinforces why.
Woah! Zing bong futang futang olé biscuit barrel; the nose is impossibly stacked! One sniff will elucidate that this wine is punching well above its weight and like a fired up Israel Adesanya, has the power to mass ratio of a coiled spring! Pungent grapefruit blossom comes storming out of the glass and opens to reveal marzipan, ginger ale and snappy almond brittle. With the punch of Electric Puha, it boasts aromas of fresh hops, ground allspice, baked oatmeal, preserved orange-peel and a flinty minerality which contains the nose as tight as a G-string. In the mouth the wine has the pure citrus attack of freshly squeezed lime juice though to be fair, glimpses of elderflower champagne and cinnamon round it out slightly. The edgy balance strays a little down the leg side but a racy acidity cuts through the minimal level of sweetness like a strike bowler through the tail end. The flavours sneak up with all the subtlety of a tiger in leopard skin tights, jumping and fizzing as they spark from cheek to cheek so that each sip awakens the senses anew. While the texture is chalky, as though grown on pure limestone, the rasping structure claws at the taste buds and causes the saliva to run free. While this wine is likely to be long lasting, it won’t last long.!