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This is a very expressive and sure footed wine that lunges from the glass with intoxicating intensity. Tangy tangelo, the heavy scent of Boronia on the Ides of March and a twitch of Scottish heather ramp up the senses while the malicious pungency of lily of the valley combines deceitfully with aniseed and a hint of sea salt. On top of this comes a restorative flagellation of stinging nettle, fragrant banana passionfruit and a little tightly knit lamb’s wool. Finally arrowroot and a touch of glaziers putty give the nose just enough complexity to start a scandal in a presidential election. The palate is the full Monty, filled with an exciting expectancy and presenting as big hearted, thick set and displaying the gritty depth of character which makes it a hard man to put down. There is a roundness to the flavours of pineapple, persimmon, blood orange, rum and raisin which surge across the tongue and overwhelm the senses. Iced nettle tea is prevalent here too though this is tempered by the almost subliminal residual sweetness which twists around the gentle curves of acidity before crumpling to the floor like a discarded peignoir. The phenolics of the young wine are perhaps a little furry and austere but like a rock in a hard place will soften to dust like ashes where the fire once glowed. Try this wine with a hearty Canadian poutine.